Domaine J. de Villebois Pouilly-Fumé AOP 2025

Joost and Miguela de Willebois came back from the Netherlands to the Loire in 1996, where the family has its roots, and have worked on Sauvignon Blanc (100 %) ever since. Pouilly-Fumé sits on the right bank facing Sancerre and allows Sauvignon as its only grape. Flint runs deeper here than across the river, joined by limestone and marl with oyster shells, the source of that smoke. The grapes reach the cellar quickly, are pressed gently and ferment for around two weeks in steel tanks. Six months on the fine lees follow and build volume. The nose is delicately smoky over ripe fruit, the palate brings candied pineapple, vine peach and mango, carried by ripe acidity that keeps things fresh. We reach for it when Sauvignon should turn out rounder than from the other bank.