Buy wines from Louis de Grenelle
Twelve metres beneath the streets of Saumur lies a world of its own. Kilometres of tunnels wind their way through the light-coloured tuffeau, the soft limestone from which many of the famous châteaux of the Loire were also built. In one of these quarries, first dug in the 15th century, millions of bottles from Louis de Grenelle are now stored. With a consistently low temperature and high humidity, the sparkling wines find almost ideal conditions here for their slow maturation.
The house’s history dates back to 1859. This makes Louis de Grenelle one of Saumur’s most traditional sparkling wine producers – and today it is the town’s last major, independent, family-run house. In 1976, the winemaker Hubert Bodet, together with two partners, took over the then-struggling house and turned it around. In 2009, he handed over the reins to his daughter Françoise Flao and his son-in-law Jean-Pierre Flao, who continued the focus on quality and combined traditional craftsmanship with modern cellar technology. Cellar master Guillaume Poitevin is responsible for vinification and champions a style that emphasises freshness, precision and rather restrained dosages. His statement, “What is typical of the Loire is that nothing is typical”, sums up beautifully what fascinates him about the region: the diversity of its grape varieties, soils and wine styles.
Naturally, the focus is on the classic varieties of the Anjou-Saumur region: first and foremost Chenin Blanc, along with Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Grolleau Noir and Grolleau Gris. Chenin plays a special role in the white sparkling wines. Its pronounced acidity, its capacity for slow development and its combination of fruit, floral notes and mineral tension make it an ideal base for traditional bottle fermentation. Cabernet Franc, in turn, not only produces rosé but can even be vinified as a Blanc de Noirs at Louis de Grenelle.
The family-owned Château de la Durandière, with around 40 hectares of vineyards, forms the basis for some of the wines. In addition, the estate has long collaborated with twelve winegrowing families from various areas around Saumur. This diversity of origin is deliberate: different soils and grape varieties provide the raw material for cuvées, whose character is subsequently shaped by secondary fermentation and extended ageing on the lees. Vineyard management follows sustainable principles; the estate also produces certified organic cuvées.
The méthode traditionnelle is key at Louis de Grenelle. Following the first fermentation of the base wines, the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. Then, deep within the tuffeau cellar, perhaps the most important phase begins: the time spent on the lees. Depending on the cuvée, this ranges from just over a year to several years. This refines the perlage, whilst notes of brioche, pastries, nuts and spices develop alongside the primary fruit. At times, around four million bottles are stored in the cellar.
The range demonstrates just how versatile sparkling wine from the Loire can be. Chenin and Chardonnay produce elegant white Saumur and Crémant de Loire cuvées, whilst Cabernet Franc and Grolleau bring colour and spice to the rosés; these are complemented by Blanc de Noirs and longer-aged prestige cuvées. What they all share is a distinctive character: fine bubbles, lively acidity, moderate dosage and that special freshness which makes good sparkling wines from the Loire so invigorating and delightful. In the Loire, good sparkling wine does not need to try to imitate Champagne. Chenin, Cabernet Franc, Tuffeau and the cool cellars beneath Saumur lend it its own distinct identity.
© Photos: Louis de Grenelle
