Penfolds St. Henri 2023

St. Henri is the quieter voice at Penfolds. John Davoren conceived the Shiraz in the 1950s as a wine made without new oak, matured only in large, seasoned oak vats. The fruit comes from McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway and Port Lincoln, and in 2023 for the first time from Frankland River in Western Australia, which had one of its finest seasons. Twelve months in old wood, and a cool, wet vintage behind it. The nose carries black and blue berries, dark spice, fennel and star anise, with flint, cordite and black tea behind. The palate is round and gentle, full of fruit and density, with a fine peppery bite and finely woven tannins that carry long. Two 96-point scores, from Wine Advocate and James Suckling. We would put a few bottles away for the cellar.