Autumn and winter are the time when hunters bring us excellent quality game birds from the forest. But each species is different, has light or dark meat, is lean or has a lot of fat. In our wine recommendations, we take this into account and recommend a preparation method and the right wines for each type of game bird.
A classic French dish is faisan en cocotte aux truffes, i.e. pheasant cooked in a cast iron pot with truffles, which are then sliced under the breast and leg skin. A magnificent, almost royal dish, which we suggest pairing with some mature wines.
We braise a wild turkey with chestnuts, thyme and root vegetables. We recommend creamy, not too heavy white wines or rather fruity red wines with moderate tannins.
Another classic is a roast breast of wild duck with a reduced port and shallot sauce and celeriac puree. A red Burgundy provides structure and flavour, a Syrah adds a peppery note and a mature Rioja Reserva contributes spicy notes and goes perfectly with the sauce.
While red wines tend to harmonise with duck breast with port wine jus, we opted for white wines and a fragrant Vernatsch for the whole roast partridge with grapes, sage and creamy polenta. The Chenin Blanc provides structure and finesse, the Grüner Veltliner harmonises perfectly with the sage, and the Vernatsch complements the dish with its fragrance and fruit.
One of the most popular dishes at Christmas or in the run-up to Christmas is crispy goose with red cabbage, marjoram and potato dumplings. A wine that (perhaps surprisingly) goes very well with it is a Riesling Spätlese. The acidity balances out the fat and the slight sweetness complements the red cabbage. A Grüner Veltliner Reserve adds strength and slightly peppery notes to the dish, while a mature Pinot delights with its ethereal notes and also perfectly integrates the fat of the goose.
In contrast to goose, quail, for example with grapes, Marsala and rosemary, lends itself to more fragrant wines. We have opted for a Tuscan cuvée, Sancerre and a complex rosé. The Tuscan provides a slightly exotic flavour, but also picks up on Mediterranean herbal notes. The Sancerre is taut, fresh, clear and picks up on the sweetness and flavours of the grapes, while the rosé combines freshness, Mediterranean notes and a tingling minerality with the dish, but is just as creamy and sensual.
Pink roast pigeon with beetroot risotto and rosemary jus is a great way to round off our suggestions for game birds. Here we want to draw on the full potential once again and suggest deep, complex wines with flavour and richness.
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